Exporting Dogs from the UAE

25 Thursday Sep 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in Dubai, Traveling, UAE

We started out talking to several local boarding kennels in Dubai and Sharjah who also deal with importing and exporting pets. They were very helpful and offered up lots of information and a HEFTY price tag. We paid about $1500 CAD to get them into the country (excluding the cost of vaccinations to avoid quarantine), there’s no way I’m paying more than that to get them out. What we were quoted was closer to $4000 CAD. How hard could it be though, right? It was a hellish experience bringing them in I don’t know why we thought it would be easier heading the other direction.

Okay, really it hasn’t been that bad so far. There aren’t a crazy amount of vaccinations and money rolling out, so far so good. It’s just been stressful and frustrating. The most frustrating part of exporting our dogs out on our own is that everyone expects you to know what to do. For example, when I first started asking questions about how to export our dogs no one really knew who I should talk to. So my communications have bounced around to nearly the entire cargo department of our airline. After several months of emails and phone calls, I think I’m finally talking to the right guy (whew, only 2 weeks before we ship out). So I’m going to share with you what I’ve learned incase you’re crazy enough to try this on you own as well.

For the sake of ease, I’m just going to list in order what you need to do.

1. Look up the Government Agriculture website of your local country. Search for something that says, “pet import” or something similar. Print of the list of requirements right from the webpage, including the government header and everything (just in case).

2. Contact the cargo department of your airline and request “AVI requirements” or the process for pet export.

3. Have your pet vaccinated according to the specifications you found steps 1&2. We were also asked to send photos of our pets (to confirm they weren’t blunt nosed), dimensions and weight of the carriers we were using, and the weight of our dogs.

4. Apply for the required Ministry Health Certificate. This is good for 30 days. Some countries require this certificate for import no more than 10 days before arrival, so check that with your country of import. You can put all your animals on one certificate, so don’t apply for this more than once (even though they’ll tell you on the phone that you need one for each pet). On the website it says you only need to wait 15 minutes to be processed. What this really means is that 15 minutes after you drive the application number down to your shipping company, whether you’re going through Emirates or Dnata, with your pet (but don’t bring them into the office!), they will scan your pets, print off your certificate, and stamp it (can’t forget the stamp). Done. Also, there isn’t a single, specific location for the Ministry OF Environment and Water (MOEW) in Cargo village. We took our dogs to the Dnata warehouse in the Dubai Airport Freezone.

5. We also required a Transit Certificate to go through Hong Kong. This really messed us up because the airline wanted everything taken care of well in advance. They pushed us to get the Ministry Health Certificate as soon as possible even though Canada wouldn’t allow it to be older than 10 days. Hong Kong needed the Health Certificate before they would allow a Transit Certificate to be issued, so make sure you look into that if you aren’t making a direct flight.

6. With your ducks all in a row (certificates certified), you’re ready to go – EASY PEASY. Unless…you’re us. I don’t know if the guys in the cargo office don’t get along with the guys in the warehouse or what the problem is. We were told to arrive with the dogs several hours before our flight to check them in, “no problem, no problem”. When we arrived the warehouse guys were not happy to see us. We were told we should have been down at the warehouse at least the day before. Now there is a mad rush to process the dogs, get our paperwork all stamped up, and put the dogs on the plane. It took at least 90 minutes to get two dogs through customs, and then the other shoe dropped. “That’ll be 12,000AED (~$4000CAD).” Um no way. We were quoted half of that based on dimensions I sent them back in step #3!! Here’s why this was a HUGE problem, we were leaving the country. We were getting on a plane in 2.5 hours, with no plans of returning any time soon. We no longer had a bank account for crying out loud. Their solution was for us to ask someone to loan us the money or they weren’t going to ship the dogs. They weren’t even willing to except half a payment. James was a wonderful, forceful (there may have been some yelling) advocate for these dogs and our family as a whole. He put his foot down, and convinced these guys to put our dogs through to Vancouver on his word (there was actually a lot of yelling, maybe a threat of a lawsuit if the dogs didn’t make it).

All in all, we made it. Every last one of us. There was yelling, and tears, and if we ever do this again…the dogs will stay with an Aunty.

Top 10 things…I will miss about the UAE.

24 Wednesday Sep 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in American University of Sharjah, Dubai, I miss..., Sharjah, UAE

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I will miss so much more of the UAE than these 10 things.

#10 – Round-A-Bouts

At first round-a-bouts were a little intimidating to understand. I have a feeling there are quite a few people here trying to figure them out still. Once you get it, they are actually pretty awesome, but not in consistently high traffic areas. Traffic continues to flow, and if you’re not sure which way to go, just go around again. Rules to remember with round-a-bouts or ‘squares’ as I’ve heard them referred to, is that “whoever is in front, wins”. If you’re in front of the guy beside you, and you need to turn but he isn’t, you have right of way (don’t forget to use your blinker). Also, squares aren’t much different than intersections. If you want to take the 3rd exit, you get in the right lane to merge into the centre ring, and basically turn right. If there are 3 lanes going into a square, left lane turns left (and straight if there are 3 lanes coming out of the square), centre lane goes straight, right lane goes straight or right. When their are only 2 lanes going into a square, left lane goes left and straight, right lane goes straight and right. See. Simple.

#9 – Having a ‘Guy’

So this did make it on my list after all. You want a shelf hung, you call a ‘guy’ to hang the shelf. You need a light change, call a ‘guy’ to do it. Water my grass, the ‘guy’ comes by everything other day to turn the water on for 15 min, then turn it off again. Need your car washed in your parking spot, you can have a ‘guy’ do it at home, or while you’re at the mall shopping. Back broke off your chair, no problem, call the ‘guy’ to come and fix it. We’ve even had half a dozen mice, ant infestation, and a bed bug scare. We just called a ‘guy’ and the problem was solved. Think my ‘guy’ will move to Canada with me?

#8 – Full service…everything

Who wants to get out of their car…for anything. Gas, all full service, at every station except after 12:00am at some stations. Remember drive-in’s? You drove into the parking lot and honked, and someone would come out and take your order? I have never done this but I’ve seen it done and not only at fast food restaurants. I’ve seen people do this at grocery stores, hardware stores and other smaller places of business.

#7 – Spontaneous Holidays

The holidays on the calendar are tentative at best. Every once in a while an announcement is made that certain sectors will not be working on certain days. I’m sure it’s a rare thing. But we saw this happen twice within a week. This could also fall on my things I won’t miss about the UAE, as it makes planning difficult. But hey, a bonus day off is nothing to complain about.

#6 – Inexpensive Services

Our favourite service has been dry-cleaning. I get everything dry-cleaned. Quilts, pillows, James work shirts and pants, the girls dresses, carpets, sleeping bags. First of all my washing machine barely handles daily laundry for 5 let alone one quilt. Second, I don’t have to iron shirts when someone else does a better job for $1/shirt.

#5 – Security

We live in a large, gated community. There is a fence that runs around the entire University City. Inside that each separate University or College is surround by it’s own fence. Emirate police are posted at each gate entrance, randomly screening people who enter into the ‘city’. Faculty/Staff are separated from students by a fence as well. Guards are setup at A/C booths, or on patrol all day and night all over campus. It sounds like we’re really locked down, but for the most part you don’t ever see these guys though you know they’re there.

The community is also small enough that we look out for each other. My neighbours are familiar with my kids, as I am with theirs. When my kids go to the store, they know and talk to the people that work there. We’ve been surrounded by many friendly, caring people who watch out for each other.

#4 – Rain days

Rain days are another rarity, but a welcome one. It is quite the novelty when it rains here as the drainage system is poor to non-existent. Rain waters quickly pool in cul-de-sacs and round-a-bouts making instant swimming pools for puddle jumping. What’s more fun than swimming in dirty street water fully clothed?

#3 – 98% chance of good weather, every day

Planning a camping trip? Want to go to the beach or waterpark? No need to check the weather network to plan in advance. Even if it rains it’s going to be a good day for anything. Pick a day, and pack your stuff.

#2 – Camping when and wherever you like

No need to book ahead with the local government (unless you plan on camping in Dubai). If there isn’t enough space in your desired location just drive a little further and drop your tent. Don’t want to go too far off the road, no problem. I’ve seen tents set up just off the highway many times (not that I would want to camp there).

#1 – All-Inclusive Campus life

We’ve certainly been spoiled here at the American University of Sharjah. From the on-call carpenters and fix-it guys, to the full free access to community events and amenities (gyms, indoor and outdoor pools, grocery store, pharmacy, hair saloons, soccer fields, baseball diamond, cricket pitch, tennis courts, basketball courts) all with in walking distance. You really can’t beat the package we got here. Friends were easily made as we’re all in the same boat of being expats away from our families. All this made our initial landing here easier to bear, and hard to leave. I hope we are able to come back some day.

Top 10 things…I haven’t missed about Canada.

24 Wednesday Sep 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in Canada, I miss..., UAE

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Things got a little crazy at the end of packing, and the computer was wrapped in a box before I knew it. Here are some posts that I wrote before the move.

6 months ago this post would have been way easier to write. Now that we’re weeks away, I honestly can’t withhold my excitement. The more I try to think about what I haven’t missed, the more excited I get to go back blocking out all those negative thoughts.

#10 – Temperatures below 15C

The area we are from, this is the temperature the majority of the time. It’s cold. Sure after a winter of -30C anything above +10C is t-shirt weather, but come on.

#9 – Gas Prices

When I started driving in 1996 gas cost $.49/L. I would complain about dishing out $25 to fill up BOTH of the gas tanks in my pickup. Gas in the UAE currently costs $.50/L. It’s been like going back in time 20 years! Except instead of gradual, painful inflation over time, we get to have our organs torn from our body in rapid succession just so we can afford paying $1.72/L (or whatever ridiculous amount they are charging).

#8 – Taxes

It’s been a simple pleasure to go into a store, grab a few items, and know EXACTLY how much you would be forking over at the till. No guesses on what qualifies to be taxed and what doesn’t, and how much tax you will actually have to pay. I’m pretty sure Canada taxes you to breath their air.

#7 – Allergies

Over the first 10 years of my marriage my allergies were gradually getting worse. Before we left Canada in Sept. 2012 I was at the point where I had to take Benadryl daily from May to September just to function. My sinuses would clog, causing me to have headaches, and puffy eyes and itchy everything inside my face (nose, mouth, throat). While in the UAE, I still have mild allergy symptoms in the summer, but I don’t have to take Benadryl to get through the day.

#6 – Frizzy, Staticky Hair

My hair is almost as long as it was for my wedding day (mid-lower back), and I wear it down. Almost always (except lately with the humidity) I wear it down. In Canada, my hair would be so staticky, flying all over the place in my mouth and eyes that I would have it up in a braid, ponytail or hat constantly.

#5 – Wet Snow

I like snow. It’s pretty when everything looks white and clean. I also look forward to when the snow first starts to melt and you know summer is on it’s way. It’s the 6 inches of heavy, melting snow rivers I don’t miss. Especially on our street where they don’t clear the snow during the winter. They just let it build up, than drop some salt on it to get things melting. Thanks city of PG. I guess you know how much I hate dry socks.

#4 – Kids in Separate Schools

Here in the UAE, my 3 kids were all in the same school. Easy peasy! Heading back to Canada, we’re heading back to 3 different schools. One in a French track school, one in English track school, and one in high school. Let’s see how long we last without a car this winter shall we.

#3 – Paying for Amenities, and stuff

Like I mention in another post, we have access to everything we need here on AUS campus with in walking distance and free. Back home we’ll be able to walk to the grocery store, and walk to church…and really I guess it will only take me 30 minutes to walk to one gym, and an hour to walk to the other. Why am I talking about walking everywhere? Haven’t I mentioned we don’t insure our car 6 months out of the year to avoid the craziness of everything entailed with driving in the snow? On top of walking across town (or hoping I make the bus stop in time) we have to pay crazy amounts of money to have access to these facilities – yay. Let’s not forget all the bills we will have to start keeping track of again. It truly has been like a paid vacation here.

#2 – Prices

For the most part, big ticket items cost about the same here (even after currency conversation of $1 CA = 3.50 AED). There are items though, that are a quarter of the price than they are at home. For example, gas here is 1.72 AED/L in Canada it is currently $1.72/L.

#1 – Nursing School

When we left Canada I couldn’t talk about nursing school without breaking down into tears. I was that stressed out about it. My last semester of school (before we moved) I spontaneously broke into full body hives twice, and ended up in the hospital with a Morphine allergy after being treated for Kidney Stones. It’s only been in the last few months that I have been able to regain control of my emotions when talking about nursing school. I hope I can keep it together a few more years and complete the program. BTW congrats to the UNBC BCN grad class of 2014! Wish I could have been there with you guys!

Top 10 things…I won’t miss about the UAE.

24 Wednesday Sep 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in UAE

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Though the UAE has been a wonderful experience there are some things I’m am looking forward to being without. After I made this list I realized that the majority of my dislikes are traffic related. I’m sure there are a few other things I could add to this list, but these ones definitely popped into my head first.

#10 – Fast lane Honkers/blinkers

These are the people who come up on your bumper out of nowhere. I’m pretty sure the reason they blink their high beams is because you can’t see them otherwise. They are so close to your bumper that you don’t even realize there is a car behind you unless they honk or blink or pull onto the shoulder to pass you at 140km/hr.

#9 – ‘Magic Parking Spaces’ a.k.a. 4-way Flashers

Just when you were worried about finding a parking spot one magically appears with a press of the magical red triangle button on your dashboard. Otherwise known as your hazard lights, or 4-way flashers. Everyone here knows this trick and uses it, constantly, in the most inconvenient (for everyone else) place. Trapped in the morning school rush and can’t find a parking spot, no problem, you don’t need to pull your vehicle off to the side of the road (or even out of the way) by pressing that little magic button – POOF- magic parking spot. Heading out on the town and all the parking stalls are full, no problem, pull up behind any vehicle and press the button – BAM- magic parking spot.

#8 – ‘Gold Lane’ drivers

We’re all familiar with that yellow line on the far left and right side of the road. I always thought of it as a barrier, and sign to tell me I needed to drive my vehicle between those lines. Apparently it has an entirely different meaning over here. These yellow lines indicate the ‘Gold’ lane. These lanes are for the impatient, ‘important’, entitled drivers that can’t understand why you’re following the laws of the road, driving the posted maximum speed limit and clogging up the road. Kind of like the carpool lane for people who aren’t concerned with the safety of the other drivers on the road.

#7 – Bumper Babies

This is closely related to the #10 point on this list. Except these guys don’t give you any indication that they are back there. One minute there is no one behind you, and the next you can count the nose hairs of the driver directly behind you. These guys sway back and forth, looking for an opportunity to squeeze by you, sometimes taking advantage of the ‘Gold’ lane. These are also the guys that won’t let you in front of them when you’re trying to merge lanes as they ride the bumper of the guy you’re trying to get behind. You could have your blinker on forever, and just when it looks like they’re going to let you in they speed up (swerving around you) to get back to the bumper they were previously suckling. If you do manage to get in front of one of these guys they are unforgiving. The next chance you get expect the daggers of guilt they fire your way from stealing their precious bumper.

#6 – Morning School Run

In Sharjah someone came up with the brilliant idea to zone the private school district. Sounds like a great idea right! Put all the private schools in one area. That way you don’t have the buses clogging up other areas of the emirate, parents that drive their kids can easily find their school…um, yeah, wait … how is that a good thing. Let me count the schools in our area for you. 1, 2, 3…13. Those are only the ones that show up on Google Maps. There are at least 3 others I know of that aren’t on the map. All within a 1km radius. I leave our house an hour before school starts so that it only takes me 10-15 min to get to the kids school. If we’re even 5 minutes late in leaving the house, it could take us 30-45 min to cover the same distance.

#5 – U-turns

Left hand turns are rare here. So getting around involves at least a U-turn or 4. Sometimes if you miss your exit it could mean adding more u-turns. The not so great thing about u-turns is that they are also rare, though not as rare as being able to make a left handed turn. This means that km’s and time can be added in frustration to a seemingly straight forward line of direction if any mistakes are made. As a result, it is not abnormal to see people driving in reverse down the road to missed exits, even the ‘Gold’ lane of major roadways.

#4 – Non-blinkers

We get these types in Canada too, but they’re some how … nicer about it. I think this stems from the amount of ‘Bumper Babies’ there are on the road. They rationalize not blinking as being ‘ninja like’, a sneaky way to lane change. Sometimes Bumper Babies get distracted, and slow down leaving enough space to jump in front of them. There isn’t always time to blink. Still. Annoying. Similar to Bumper Babies is their ability to come out of nowhere. One minute everyone is in their own lane, moving along peacefully, and the next they’re practically side swiping you in a slow motion (or not so slow) left hook, pushing you out of the way.

#3 – Awkward long stares

As a woman this is weird and unsettling. When I stare someone down it’s usually because there is something familiar about them and I’m trying to figure out if I know them. So when someone is staring me down I look back, let them get a good look at my face and wait for the realization to wash over them that we don’t know each other and should then take the next step in our awkward acquaintance. Which is to look away, or smile and wave. More often than not, neither of these things happens. Resulting in an unnerving feeling of violation. I don’t know if it’s just because I’m Canadian, but I feel like I wasn’t polite enough and that drives me batty.

#2 – +50C

I didn’t think it was possible to survive in heat like this. Now that I am on my second cycle of +50C temps I’m wondering how I’m going to survive anything below +20C. If you want to know what I’m talking about there are a number of ways to accurately feel what it’s like to live in the desert. First, turn on your hairdryer to it’s hottest setting, low blow, then point it directly in your face – ahh, can you feel the sand? The second scenario that I think gives the best example of the heat with humidity factor we’re actually getting now is akin to what you feel in the adult sauna at your local pool. Try walking around, fully covered (shoulders to knees) – yah, so relaxing 🙂

#1 – Speed ‘Humps’

Humps. That’s what they call them here. Something to do with camels maybe? Anyhow, they are plentiful. Cruising at 120km/h down the highway, what’s that in the road? Da-da-da-da-da-da-da-da…buh-bump. Gold lane drivers aren’t exempt from them either. On certain stretches of highway you’ll see mini speed humps on the shoulder alone. I assume to deter people from driving on the shoulder. That’s when you get people using the Platinum lane, otherwise known as the ‘desert bypass’.

Bonus – Litter

Nothing peeves me more then to be in such a beautiful country with such breath taking landscapes then to discover on closer inspection it is a dump, literally. The UAE is full of proud, patriotic, educated people who are also a bit self absorbed and perhaps have a slight entitlement complex. It blows my mind every time I see the passengers of the cars around me on the road, roll down their window and toss out their trash. I’m not talking apple cores, cigarette butts, or gum (though I’ve seen those go out the window as well). I’m talking full bags of McDonald’s garbage tossed out the window. Or plastic bags full of whatever trash, just dropped onto the road next to their car as they drive away. I’ve seen people open all their doors at a red light, and sweep the tissues, wrappers, bits of food onto the street before jumping back in as the light changed to green. Wow. Stay classy UAE. Stay classy. I wish I could get away from that when we head to the sand dunes for camping, or a nearby wadi for a hike and a swim. It’s almost worse in these places. The last few months, while the weather was tolerable, we kept garbage bags and gloves in our car to pick up what we could. It just doesn’t end, and it won’t until they change.

A Farewell to the Middle East.

04 Monday Aug 2014

Posted by jrwmacdonald in UAE

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A few months ago I went for a run and got a very sharp thorn in my shoe. The thorn was so sharp and so long that it went all the way through the sole of my shoe and stuck me in the bottom of the foot. I had to stop and dig the thorn out. I held onto the thorn while I ran, thinking that once I got home I’d take a picture of it and write a small post about the cruelty of the desert. I was unable to keep a hold on the thorn while I ran. I dropped it and lost it and then promptly forgot all about it until tonight.

As I went for my last run tonight in the Middle East for what is likely to be a long time I thought about my experiences here. I thought about how hard it is to run in the summer heat. It was about 38 degrees Celsius with about 70 percent humidity tonight. That is really unpleasant. Yet there I was outside running in it. I felt like perhaps I’d won a little game against nature or not “won” so much as tied or forced a draw. The desert hadn’t beat me.

As I contemplated how harsh the desert is, how mean and vindictive, how unforgiving and exacting it can be I saw on the ground in front of me a feather. It was the feather of an Indian Roller. These are beautiful birds with brilliant shades of blue. I kept running for 30 or 40 meters before I suddenly felt like I should collect that feather. I turned around and retrieved the feather. It was then I thought of the thorn I’d lost. I held tight to the feather and managed to bring it all the way home.

I realized tonight as I ran that this is what I hope my children can do with their experiences here in the Middle East and the rest of their lives. I hope they can lose the thorns they collect along the way and keep the small pieces of beauty they find. It felt a little like this place was giving me this feather, this small reminder that no matter how harsh, how unforgiving and how unpleasant there will be beauty and something of worth in our experiences.

So here at the end of one adventure and the beginning of another I pause to be grateful for the journey. I am grateful that there have been no thorns that have pierced too deeply or stung so bitterly that I can not lay them down and appreciate the small beauties and tender mercies of life. I recognize that that ability, to lose the thorns, to see and appreciate the good, comes from something greater than me. It is a gift. Me, I am the guy that keeps running despite the treasure at his feet. It takes a few extra meters before I’m compelled to stop a while and appreciate what is before me.

Top 10 things…I miss about Canada.

13 Sunday Jul 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in American University of Sharjah, Canada, I miss..., Sharjah, Traveling, UAE

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Consignment stores, Driving, Grocery Shopping, Left-hand turns, Road signs, seasons, Ski Dubai, Slurpees, Snow, UAE

I’ve been wanting to write this post for awhile about things I am beginning to miss about Canada. Now that we’re heading back, I’ve also been thinking about what I’ll also miss about the UAE. So there will be a theme to my next few posts.

My ultimate items are friends and family so I’m not going to include them on any of these lists. I just can’t rank how much I love those people! So here we go.

#10 – Slurpees

Who doesn’t want a huge glass of flavoured slushy ice on a hot day? Why hasn’t this become popular here?? I’ve definitely been craving slurpees since the day we left. Watch out Mr. G’s and 7-11, we’re coming for you.

#9 – Grocery shopping

Ever wondered what it would be like to go into a grocery store and find them out of stock of milk. Or cheese. Or ranch dressing. Or even that one kind of popular cereal you usually get. That’s what it’s like to shop here. It’s not even obscure speciality items, it’s hit and miss with the regular items you would expect to be in stock… always. I am looking forward to going to the grocery store and knowing I can get what I went in looking for. How easy was that to take for granted.

#8 – Polite drivers

Maybe I’ve been out of touch too long. I know there are still lots of crazy impatient people on the road, even in Canada. Generally though it has been my experience that when you put your blinker on in Canada to merge into a lane, folks either move over or slow to give you space. They DON’T typically speed up and swerve around you. Isn’t that a novel idea.

#7 – Falling snow

Not even at Ski Dubai can you experience falling snow. As a sci-fy geek and long time trekkie, driving through falling snow at night is the best experience (as long as I’m not the one doing the driving).

#6 – Left-hand turns

I completely understand why this isn’t possible in most areas here in the UAE. It’s the way people behave on the roads here. I’m certain car accident deaths due to left handed turns must have been substantial to make them nearly non-existent here now. Especially with all the issues we face with distracted drivers, I guarantee I feel more confident making a left turn in Canada than I do here.

#5 – Properly labeled and positioned road signs

Driving still feels like a fairly new thing for a lot of people here, including the local transit authority. They seem to be getting better though, or we’ve just gotten used to the way they post signage here. When we first moved here, I could not figure out where we were on a map to save my life. Lack of street names in English or altogether is part of the problem. The other issue with signage here is that sometimes there are just so many converging roadways in one spot that it’s difficult to get the signage placed in such a way that gives drivers enough time to determine which route will take them to their destination. This is frustrating in a country that forces you to drive 10 km’s out of your way to turn around if you make a mistake like that. So, good on you BC. At least you got that one figured out.

#4 – Screwing in my own lightbulb

It’s been handy having someone on call, at any time, to take care of whatever needed taking care of in our villa. I don’t mean like in Canada when you call the mechanic in a rental and they give you some lame time between 8am and 6pm 3 days from now. I send an email, or give a call and they are there in an hour, fixing my table, hanging my pictures, changing my lightbulbs. It’s amazing, I don’t know why I think I’m not going to miss this. At the same time, I like to exercise my independence while I’m still capable of doing that. I also think this mentality really feeds into the entitlement issues here. There are a lot of people here who could not function without service like this. They demand and expect this type of service. These people would not survive for very long outside of this bubble of the UAE.

#3 – Paddling a canoe

I’m sure I could have got myself over to the boat club and gone for a paddle up the beach on whatever I wanted to pay for, but it’s not the same. There’s a great atmosphere when you’re sitting on a lake, surrounded by woods, paddling a canoe. It’s peaceful, serene. Don’t think there are many places like that I could have found here.

#2 – Consignment Stores

Clothes are relatively cheap here, depending on what stores you’re shopping in. I couldn’t ever get into the groove of shopping in many of the stores here. The one consignment store I did manage to find was a factory filled with dumped goods. You really have to have vision to see the potential of items in this place. The clothing section, on an upper floor, was literally a pile of clothes that you climbed through. Value Village I missed your multitude of selection in brands, styles, genders. You are my one stop shop, where I don’t have to worry about how fast the kids will outgrow or ruin the clothes. Where I don’t get those feelings of buyer’s remorse. I can’t wait to replenshish my wardrobe.

#1 – Changing Seasons

Who knew living in a perpetual summer could be a bit of a downer. I found myself getting a bit teary eyed and homesick several months ago when I came across some beautiful scenic fall landscape photographs. Leaves fall all year round here, but the trees don’t change colours like they do back home. The trees here stay green, and the old leaves just turn brown and fall off. Raking leaves all year round really isn’t what it’s cracked up to be.

Bonus – Light switches

The light switch in our bedroom drives me nuts. Maybe it’s just one of the many quirks of the poor layout of our villa, because it just doesn’t make sense. We have to open our door completely and walk into the room before turning on the light. Light switches for washrooms are typically located outside of the washroom here. So our toilet light switch is located on the wall, next to the door to our bedroom, right where I have instinctively, for 2 years, reached to turn on the light to our room. For the most part. Light switches at our house in BC are right where they should be. Yay for good planning!

Ramadan

29 Sunday Jun 2014

Posted by jrwmacdonald in Islam, UAE

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This will be our second Ramadan in the UAE. I quite enjoyed the relaxed pace of things last Ramadan and look forward to a general slow down in this holy month. On a practical level, for us, it means that my work day is reduced to 6 hours (without a lunch break). Generally this means I’ll be in the office from 7am to 1pm. Today, however, I am on the reference desk until 4pm so I won’t go in until 10am. I’m using some of that extra time to write this post. Ramadan also means changes in traffic. The roads will generally be better except for right before Iftar when everyone is racing to get to the place they need to be to break their fast and late at night when folks are heading home after long meals and social events.

The word Ramadan, I understand, means “great heat.” I suppose that can have a symbolic as well as a practical meaning. Muslims fast from sun up to sun down over the entire month (I do not recommend that the Inuit convert anytime soon). The devout find themselves in a period of deep reflection and prayer as well as study of their sacred text. It is believed that the Quran was revealed in the closing days of Ramadan.

The moon has been sighted and Ramadan begins in the UAE today. While the lunar calendar could be calculated mathematically they still declare the start of Ramadan based on actual sighting of the moon. I kind of like that. It inspires a sense of watchfulness and readiness for things to come.

I’ve been thinking for weeks about how I could participate more fully in Ramadan. I’ve mentioned to a few muslim friends that I was considering fasting. They did not seem offended in any way that I would join in on the holy month. Islam is not my religion or my culture but I do have deep respect for the good it can do in the lives of the people who live it. I am fasting today – this first day of Ramadan – I won’t commit to any fasting beyond that. I will, however, spend more time with my sacred books and in prayer this month. It should be an interesting cultural experience.

Fasting is also a part of my religious heritage. We fast the first sabbath of every month. In most of the world that means from after the evening meal on Saturday to the evening meal on Sunday. The money we save during that voluntary fast is then given as an offering and used to relieve the suffering of the poor and otherwise afflicted. I am terrible at fasting. When I remember to do it inevitably my Saturday evening meal ends somewhere around 9pm and the Sunday evening meal begins around 3pm. Fasting during Ramadan I suspect may take on a similar shape for me.

My real plan is to post daily during Ramadan much like I did over Christmas. I am looking forward to a month of reflection.

Ramadan Kareem

Marathons and a Mountain

19 Saturday Apr 2014

Posted by jrwmacdonald in UAE

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The last post to this blog was January 30th! This is what happens when routine takes over and adventures simply become living. Of course, our lives have been fairly eventful and we may come to regret not writing them down as time spirals on. I have always wanted to run a marathon and I got my chance earlier this year when I ran the Dubai Marathon with my running buddies: Jeremy and Steve. I did okay for a first marathon (not as well as I’d hoped) but I’m happy with the experience. Before I jump into the story of that race, though, I want to relate a recent marathon of a different type.

During the last week of spring break Lisa and I travelled to Sri Lanka on vacation. This was my and the kids Christmas gift to Lisa. I won’t tell the story of Sri Lanka here we’ll save that for another post (possibly Lisa will write it). Lisa and I have a tendency to take these trips without the kids… We’ve been to Mexico, Hawaii and Disney World without the kids (left them with grandparents). Most recently we were in Hong Kong. When we went to Hong Kong we hired a nanny to look after the kids. This time, however, we hired no one and the kids remained home alone! I expect that some might judge us irresponsible for doing so. Certainly, I had some trepidation leaving my children for a week largely unsupervised. Though we did not make the decision lightly or without preparation.

Kirsten is a few months away from 14 and we’ve prepared her to take care of her siblings for many years now. She’s taken the babysitting course and has been given increasing responsibility in caring for her siblings since she was 9. Our week in Hong Kong demonstrated that Kirsten really did not need the help of the live in nanny we hired. It was an excellent trial run. Lisa prepared frozen meals for dinner each night with instructions for reheating and we had several family conversations where we played the scenario game: “What would you do if… someone was choking? the house was on fire? the toilet suddenly burst and water was pouring all over the floor?” etc. Emergency numbers were posted on the refrigerator and all our campus friends and neighbours were aware of our kids being home alone. How wonderful to have such a great support network of caring people willing to be there for my kids! A big thanks to the Palmers for checking in with the kids frequently and our neighbour Raji.

In addition to all of this scaffolding and support we signed Jaron and Lilli up for a weeks worth of day camps at the Epicenter. They would go to the Epicenter each morning beginning at 8 where they’d get breakfast (they had to pack their own lunches) and remain there until 5pm. Those lucky kids had one fun activity after another: crafts, water fights, treasure hunts, cooking classes, talent shows (in which Jaron and Lilli took top prize with their rendition of “Let it Go.” Lilli sang and Jaron played Olaf) and more. Nearly every night we also took the time to video call the kids with Skype from our hotel. Really the kids were well supported in there week long marathon without the parents. Yet, to leave my little ones for so long, however calculated, was hard. I still find myself sneaking into their rooms late at night to watch the rise and fall of their chests… are they breathing? Will that ever go away?

When we finally returned home and found our kids alive, well and thankfully happy to see us I was reminded that this slow growth of independence is the plan and that God our Father and friend is perhaps as anxious for us as I was for my kids. As we told our stories to each other Jaron related an incident to me. About half-way through the week the Epicenter took the kids to Wild Wadi Waterpark in Dubai for the day (crazy lucky kids). This is a giant outdoor water park with huge slides, wave pools and the like (Kirsten joined them that day). As Jaron tells it he was with a group of Epicenter kids in line waiting to get on a big slide. Jaron was at the back of the line and when he got off the slide none of his friends were at the bottom, he was all alone. Being small and alone in a giant water park with thousands and thousands of strangers would certainly be frightening. In his rising panic Jaron might have run off in search of his friends but he relates “Dad, something said to me ‘wait’ so I waited and before long some of the leaders came and found me.”

Some may say that Jaron is a smart little boy. Others may say that he has been taught well. I would love to take a little credit but I can’t. Jaron was not in much danger, of course, he may have wandered panic stricken around the park to eventually have been found and consoled but thankfully he (and his leaders) didn’t have to endure that. Some will call it good intuition but I am reminded of a missing flash drive at the start of this bold adventure and the clarity with which its location came to my mind. So I am driven to conclude that this was a small and tender mercy of the Lord. To my mind the words once came “stand up and go to work!” and ever since it has been the motto and clarion call of my life. Perhaps for Jaron he may find himself being reminded in future days simply to “wait.”

——-

If only I had been impressed to wait when the gun fired and the Dubai marathon began back in January. There were over 20,000 people at the start line that morning as we squeezed in to the throng. Jeremy, Steve and I had to get up very early in the morning to make the race and were lucky to find a parking spot quite close to the start. I’m not sure I could relate adequately the nervous tension that spread through me in the last moments before the start. I had a plan though. We’d trained well and I was more than confident that I could cover the distance with some ease. In 2013 I recorded more than 1,728 kilometres in training runs and the last quarter of the year saw 200-250ks each month. I was ready for this…

The plan was simple. I would run at a methodical 5 minutes per kilometre for the entire race. With a little sprint at the end this would give me a time of 3 hours and 30 minutes. Very respectable. It is far from say a Boston qualifying time (3hr and 5min) but for a first marathon I would be quite happy with 3:30. I wore my hydration pack so I could carry my gels and other fuel as well as Lisa’s iPhone for some tunes. The iPhone served the dual purpose of tracking my run so I would know exactly what my average pace was. I was well prepared to execute my plan and then the race began.

I started out at what I thought was a nice 5 minute kilometre. I enjoyed running in the huge crowd of people. Mostly I enjoyed passing so many people. I felt fluid, controlled, exhilarated. Then my little running assistant lowered the music volume and reported my average pace… 4min 12sec. “Whoa! Maybe I should pull back a bit” I thought. My legs said no. I carried on 2, 3, 4, 5 I felt unbeatable. I began to find a groove amongst the runners and a few I could pace off. Again it occurred to me that I wasn’t following the plan but I reasoned that I really ought to give it all I’ve got (how else will I find out just how much that is) maybe I could pull off a miracle and run a Boston qualifying time… visions of glory. I kept moving. I came across the 10k mark feeling great and in excellent time. The plan was completely forgotten.

The Dubai marathon has a couple out and backs. As I made the first turn (about kilometre 15 I think) I was still feeling pretty good and I felt good calling out to my buddies Jeremy and Steve as I passed them going the other way. (Jeremy was planning for about 4hrs and Steve about 30 minutes longer). Somewhere between kilometre 18 and 21 I began to realise there was something a little off. I wasn’t fuelling as I normally would. I just could not stomach the gels or the power bars though I continued to take on fluids my pace was rapidly slowing.

When I crossed the halfway mark I was far from a personal best and I could sense trouble was coming on. From the half marker to about kilometre 30 I was running against a wall; my pace was well over 5 minutes per K and I was consoling myself with my overall average. I could still finish within my goal and no one need know I ran like an idiot. Around K 32 I was feeling better; I was energised by the idea of only 10k to go and still a decent average. By K 34 though I was descending into one of the most painful runs of my life. My right thigh seemed to seize completely as a cramp came on suddenly. I pushed on passed a few defeated runners. Consoled by the fact that I had not resorted to throwing up as some were.

By the turn around at kilometre 36 I had a wicked cramp in the front and back of my right thigh and my left calf was almost completely locked up. Slowing down was the only way to keep going. If I stopped I would not be able to walk let alone run. Only a few hundred meters from the turn around point I was blown away to see Jeremy coming the other direction – he was not far from me at all. This could not happen… could it. At about kilometre 38 Jeremy was suddenly at my side. “Oh, hi Jeremy, great to see you!” I might have said while secretly wanting to die and cursing in silent mental anguish. He asked if I was hurt. Not technically I thought but I had excruciating cramps in the front and back of each thigh and both calves at this point.

The noble Jeremy ran with me for a few minutes before I finally told him not to wait. I was pretty angry with myself and a little resentful but honestly super happy for Jeremy (even then) that he was going to slaughter his goal. I suspect that had I not told him to move on he’d have run with me the whole way in – jerk! 🙂 Despite the leg cramps and my awful 6min + kilometre pace I figured I could sprint out the last kilometre and pass him at the end. It was not to be. It took everything I had just to pick my pace up a fraction the last few hundred meters. An ounce faster and my legs would have seized completely and they would have needed to take me off the field on a stretcher.

In the end Jeremy finished just over 3:40 and I was a little more than 3:42. Not a bad time considering my stupidity. We hung out at the finish line for Steve… though I couldn’t really have walked away if I wanted to. Steve came across the finish line looking like a Greek god out for a Sunday stroll, spot on with his goal. My enthusiasm never fails to lead me a little astray but in a small (very very small) way I’m glad of how it all turned out as I won’t soon forget it and maybe just possibly the lesson will come back at a time when I really need it.

—-

With the race behind us Jeremy and I set out on another adventure the very next day. Our schedules had finally permitted a return to Jebel Shams. If you’ve read previous posts you may recall that we nearly died on the mountain back in July. We wanted to tackle it again but in the winter and with the intent of camping at the summit. The day after the race we drove to Oman and the mountain. We arrived in the dark and setup base camp just a few meters away from our July camp.

The next day still rather sore from our marathon we set out on a two hour return hike into one of the canyons. This hike (without packs and no hills) we hoped would get our legs moving. We were also interested in exploring the abandoned village at the end of the hike. Village is a rather grand word for what we found. A smattering of small low roofed rock huts pressed neatly into the side of the cliff nearly invisible from any distance. A single track hugging the canyon wall provided access to the village and I could not help but wonder what life might have been like for its former occupants. Did hostile neighbours force them back into the canyon? Possibly but it seems more likely that they came for the water. There wasn’t much of it even in winter but there was water there. The inhabitants had built a small earthen cistern to catch the water coming from some spring up the canyon wall and a rudimentary irrigation system to water their crops. They had terraced the canyon to create small garden plots; no small feat.

By the time we got back to base camp it was lunch time. The mountain awaited and so did our 45 pound packs. A good deal of our weight was water – we would not make the same mistake we made last time. Each of us was carrying 6-8 litres. The summit was only 9 kilometres from base camp but the “trail” very difficult. The rough trail, the heavy packs, the elevation, the marathon all conspired to make for some very slow moving. We moved at more than 45 minutes per kilometre! Literally less than a tenth our running speed. The summit was reached with nothing but pure determination.

Indeed, we never actually made the summit proper. We were likely about 500 – 1000 meters from the summit marker when we had to make a choice. The last rays of the sun were winking out when we found a small flat like piece of ground about the size of the tent. There were places for tents at the summit; we’d seen them there on our last trip but our light was gone. We had headlamps and would likely have been fine but we were well aware of the 1000 meter straight drops around us. Did we dare scramble over this rocky path weighed down in the dark? For perhaps the first time in my life (assisted by Jeremy) I made the cautious decision. We dropped our packs.

The temperature at the summit was just above freezing. Almost as soon as we stopped moving and the packs hit the ground we felt the cold. At base camp it was in the low 20s and the bottom of the mountain in the 30s (celsius). I’ve long ago learned to pack for cold weather so we were soon crammed in the tent comfortably warm stuffing as many calories down our throats as possible. The food polished off I laid down on my mat and didn’t move a single muscle for a good hour as Jeremy and I talked. I fell asleep that way only to wake up several hours later so completely immobilised by the sleeping bag and fleece and layers of clothes I was wearing that I found myself in a panic attack. I’ve never really experienced anything like that before. I’ve felt panic from close encounters with death or when I’ve been in serious danger but never have I experienced anxiety and panic at this sort of level and simply by being confined. I think I’d stressed my body to the point that my brain was reacting badly. As soon as I’d extricated myself from the confines of the sleeping bag the anxiety subsided. Let’s not do that again.

The hike off the mountain the next morning was faster but not by much. The weight was reduced by our dwindling water supplies and all the food we’d consumed. Yet, we had found a new level of weariness. Last night I went to a celebration party for a friend who just completed the Marathon des Sables in Morocco (6 days – 250+ kilometres – most unforgiving climate and terrain). It had me wondering why we humans find this sort of thing so compelling. Perhaps the same reason why women have multiple children (I’d only get talked into that once ladies if the tables were turned – you all are crazy). There is something about not just the act but everything leading up to it. You prepare physically and mentally and then you take yourself as far as you believe your body and mind can go and then go further. It is experiences like those (physical, mental, spiritual, emotional) where we are stretched beyond our believed capacity and we experience huge leaps of growth that make life worth living.

Brick and Mortar

30 Thursday Jan 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in Sharjah, UAE

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Our first year in the UAE, Sept 2012-August 2013, the kids were homeschooled by me. They LOVED it. I actually got sick of hearing, “Mom, you’re the best teacher ever!”. It was NON-stop…in my head. Actually I think that was my mantra over the year. It may have sounded a bit more like this though, “You’re a good teacher, you’re a good teacher.”

First day of Kindergarten. Smallest & Youngest in his class.

Jaron (far right) cuts the ribbon at the opening ceremony for the new single track French Immersion school.

A little background. Our last few years in Canada the kids were split up into different schools. When we moved to Prince George, there was only 1 open English spot, and 1 open French spot in a English/French immersion dual track school. Kirsten stayed on track with English for grade 4 and Lilli got the French spot for grade 1. The following year the French Immersion track moved to it’s own school down the street, and Jaron started Kindergarten in French Immersion. Jaron actually ended up doing two years of Kindergarten. Not because he was behind academically or socially (Jaron’s birthday is right on the line for early admission to school so he was actually 2-6 months younger than most of his class mates) he just wasn’t ready for the serious classwork that comes with grade 1 i.e. he needed more time to just play.

Back to starting homeschool in the UAE. I wrote a little blurb about our first week here so this next part is the Reader’s digest version if you don’t want to read a whole other post.

At first I thought I was pretty amazing and I could just Pinterest cool stuff for them to do. Lilli had done really well within the French program and we didn’t want her to lose that. I can’t speak French. Well I can, but I’m sure it’s usually offensive or incomprehensible. So strike one to my plan. We’ll find a tutor I thought…that’s just what we’ll have to do. Then I gave Kirsten a worksheet of math.

She looked at it blankly, “How am I supposed to do this?”

I replied, “I don’t know. You don’t recognise any of it?”

Learning break.

Strike two. I was going to have to learn how to teach grade 7 math. I don’t remember what strike three was for me, but it certainly didn’t take long for me to get there. The end of the first day and I was already completely overwhelmed. I hadn’t even gotten to Jaron yet, who was happily playing on an iPad avoiding me.

My first thought was that we needed to get them into school. Being expatriates though means shopping around at Private Schools for the best deal. I went to two schools. Sharjah English School and Australian International School. I had also heard about K12 icademy (an online American curriculum school with an office in Dubai). When the two private schools were not within my idea of affordable or available I turned to K12 as a trusty backup plan. We signed up immediately and had the books and supplies on our doorstep in a matter of weeks.

Circle Monsters

Jaron then started grade 1 homeschool in an English only environment after having 2 years of French immersion. He had a hard time with matching English sounds to the letters of the alphabet. 4 months we struggled with learning new sounds, him fighting me every step of the way. It was such a struggle that we actually had to walk away from it all together and focus on his other subjects so not to get too far behind. He excelled in counting blocks and completing equations. In fact that was probably the only homework I didn’t have to twist his arm into completing. There were lots of fun games, and apps on my iPad that I considered good practice so that is probably what made it easier.

Lilli and Kirsten remained fairly independent with pushing themselves through and I was really impressed. Self motivation is something I continue to struggle with.

Then Christmas came, and cool camping weather. We were off exploring and experiencing our surroundings what felt like every other weekend. We had the freedom to go whenever we wanted because we weren’t bound within the walls of a “brick and mortar” school. Or so we thought.

Kirsten dissecting a chicken breast.

The kids started to get behind. Our good routine of getting up early being done early, turned into sleeping in and being done early…I think you can see where this is going. We couldn’t translate our cool adventures and exploration into credit for the curriculum. They still had to go through the motions of completing their modules, and handing in their assignments. They didn’t answer to me, I was merely the bullwhip pushing them to complete the work.

Early February we decided to try private school again, not for this year but early admission for the following school year. My first two choices turned me away before I even made it to the desk to ask for an admission application. So I tried a 3rd school recommended to me by dear friends of ours, Scholars International Academy. Kirsten had decided that she liked making her own schedule and would stick with K12 the next year. She came along anyway for Lilli and Jaron’s scheduled admissions testing. Before the test we had a quick tour. We even peaked into a few classrooms packed full of students. When Kirsten poked her head into the gr. 7 class all the students instantly shouted for her to come to this school. When we returned to the office, Kirsten pulled my sleeve and asked, “Can I take the test today too?”.

Angry about math day.

Lilli and Kirsten both tested really well. Jaron did really well with the math, however, he could not read. Facepalm. Right, we had put that off. He would have to be put in to grade 1 (again). I completely understood, but I asked anyway…”Can Jaron be retested before school starts?” I explained that he had only begun to learn to read and understand english sounds and perhaps with the rest of the school year something would click and he would be prepared to enter grade 2. The admissions clerk agreed, but admitted to me that she didn’t think it would be likely that he would advance.

After that meeting WE (I say “we” now because I finally realised I was just as much responsible for their success) were at 35% complete where we needed to be at 50%. Everyday we were playing catch up, we set new goals, did extra modules when we had time, and pushed through harder when we were struggling. Kirsten got behind a bit when she tried to cut corners with her math. Skipping over crucial learning modules that would have helped her understand her test questions better. Frustration came on hard and there were many outbursts and walls put up that made learning nearly impossible.

We got through it. Even though some of us had to stay up until midnight every night for 3 weeks writing essays. We got through it. Kirsten completed all her courses at 90-100%, Lilli still understands French really well, and Jaron could read. Success.

First day of grade 2.

First day of grade 5

First day of grade 8

Jaron was retested the day before school started for Kirsten and Lilli and was advanced to grade 2. The admissions clerk was blown away and asked what we had done to help him, surely I must have hired a tutor. Proud parent moment (PPM), “Just me and him, and a lot of hard work.”

So how are they liking their “brick and mortar” school? Let me tell you, the adjustment was a rough one.

Christmas decorations on Jaron’s classroom door.

Jaron is in grade 2, and LOVES his teacher. She is pretty amazing, and adorable. He has all his classwork in one class, but attends music in the music classroom, and PE on the pitch or in the gymnasium like he would anywhere else.

Lilli is in grade 5, and also has an excellent teacher. However, Lilli doesn’t stay in one classroom for all her subjects. She has a homeroom and must take her books along with her to her other subject classrooms. Kirsten and her share a lot of the same teachers.

Kirsten is in grade 8, her teacher is nice though I hear far more about her drama teacher. The top grade of this school at the moment is grade 9. So Kirsten is a senior, and has a lot of freedom to move around the school. She also changes classrooms for every subject.

The school is based on British curriculum. Most of the teachers are British or british taught. Muslim teachers instruct the kids in the language, culture, and history of the area. This is on top of their compulsory lessons of science, math, english, geography, P.E., world history and culture, and for some another language (so Lilli and Kirsten are learning two languages, French and Arabic). Then of course there are their electives, Drama and music. Jaron has all that as well but no French or Drama.

Some of the teachers are frustrated easily. They demand respect, compliance, and attentiveness in children that don’t have those same demands on them outside of school. The teachers sometimes yell or speak firmly to get their point across and my kids take it so personally. They had a hard time understanding that they weren’t always in trouble. We spoke about this to their teachers when we met for Parent/Teacher meetings mid-Fall. Each one expressed their love and appreciation for our kids (PPM). This term has gone much better, and I sense now that they are possibly even excited some days to go to school.

The one thing that most excites me for them to be in a “brick and mortar” school is the friends that they are making there. The kids they are meeting and hanging out with are from all over the world. I think they literally know one other Canadian at their school, and he’s a teacher. Today I talked with some of Jaron’s friends about what games they like to play. A boy from Africa, another from Pakistan and one from Jordan. They get to learn things about different people and cultures that they wouldn’t otherwise be exposed. They have learned not to judge without knowing. They have learnt to accept differences. Their minds are open. For me that has been the biggest success in bringing my kids half way around the world.

The Rest of the Story

29 Wednesday Jan 2014

Posted by lcmacdonald in Oman, Traveling, UAE

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Tags

Beach, Camel, desert, Masirah, mountain view, Oman, Salalah, Shannah, Surf

It’s been 5 months and I finally feel like I can talk about the first few days of our trip to Salalah with our Australian travel mates. To recall our last day near Salalah see this post. I also feel the need to apologise for the long winded nature of this post…but it’s in my genes so suck it up or just look at the pictures.

Where are they? Jaron peaks at the window while we wait for our travel buddies on the side of the road.

Our trip started on Saturday, August 10. When we finally rolled off the University grounds at 6:00 am the temperature gauge read 33C. The day involved a lot of driving and a lot of stopping. The Ozzy’s suspected car trouble and Jacob’s feeding schedule left us wondering on more than one occasion where the Land Cruiser disappeared too. 4 hours into the trip and my new nickname for Joe was “The Magician”. We arrived at Shannah Harbor at 6:00 pm, the temp was 27C and we had made it just in time to catch one of the last few ferries across the bay to Masirah. I don’t recall the cost of the ferry but I feel like it was very reasonable. Basically you just drive up to the boat and wait for someone to wave you to backup onto the ramp. PS, there are toilets available for your use, BYOTP (bring your own toilet paper). BYOTP should actually just be a rule traveling anywhere in the UAE or Oman, keep it in your car always.

Shannah Harbor Ferries

We arrived on the island at 8:00 pm under cover of night. The voyage had been rough and windy and we were all tired and hungry. The only lights to be seen were within the tiny town, so we drove beyond the lights before beginning our search for a place to rest our weary heads. 9:30 pm we finally decided that we couldn’t possibly drive any further. We turned off on a dirt road, crabs ran across our trail through the headlights as we looked off into darkness not being able to see 10 feet in front of us. Tired we decided to stop. The wind was still blowing wildly, but without more light, or more energy we were not going to find any shelter from it that night. James and I tore the gear from the CR-V and attempted to set up the tent. It was nearly impossible and every gust flattened the tent and filled it with sand. It was then that we decided that the kids would sleep in the car. We piled the buckets of gear into the tent to stabilise it and keep it erect while we attempted to tie the guy lines to the car for security. The wind blowing the way it was there was no way to make a fire, or even keep a stove lit. So we went to bed without dinner that night. Flashes of lightening accompanied the wind and kept us up most of the night. Unable to keep the fly tied down against the wind, sand filtered into our tent covering everything.

Sand on the mattress when I lifted up my sleeping bag.

The next morning we woke early (did I even sleep) to a layer of sand over everything. It was in my hair, my teeth, my sleeping bag, my bra. I couldn’t have had more sand on me even if I rolled in it. We set off exploring right away, as it turns out we practically set up camp in somebodies back yard or goat herding path anyhow. We pulled over at several different coves and beaches to play in the waves and look for interesting sea life and sea shells. The men would even attempt to ask for directions from some local fisher ‘boys’ and some anxious surfers to help us find a better camp spot and safe beach for the kids to play.

Looking for treasures

‘where is a good beach for kids?’

Looks like snow.

One beach we stopped at the kids were in the water before I could get the sunblock on them, and they paid dearly for it (sorry guys). We picked our camping spot while we still had more than enough light, even giving ourselves time to collect firewood and get properly set up. Dinner that evening was generously prepared by our comrades while dessert was a bit of a disappointment.

Beach camp

My wonderful, pinterest “over a fire apple crisp” recipe didn’t work out so well.

Early morning again, and this time we were off in search for some sunburn relief before getting on the ferry back to the mainland. It was 11:00 am before we were on land and on our way to Salalah. Gas stations pepper the road every 50 km or there a bouts, so there is no need to worry about running out of gas in the middle of the desert (unless you neglect to stop at any of them). We stopped in Haima, temp. 44C, next to the gas station for dinner at a traditional Arabic restaurant where there were 3 items to choose from on the menu, Combo #1: chicken & rice, Combo #2: mutton & rice, Combo #3: fish & rice, utensils optional. A few minutes down the road and we were met by a police checkpoint. There were plenty of these along that way, a comforting reassurance to those who don’t make the long drive because of the fear of pirates. As if began to get dark we decided we would look for camp the moment the temperature dropped below 27C. The temperature didn’t even begin to get close to that mark until 10:30 pm when we reached a tourism/ police checkpoint in dense fog. They were checking drivers licenses and registration like every checkpoint before, but also instructing drivers to clean the protective paint off their vehicles. Around here when one does a lot of dune-bashing with a personal vehicle they tend to protect the paint by using a protective spray on coating. This spray on coating comes in many different colors and washes off ‘easily’ under soap and water. It is applied by hand usually and doesn’t tend to look very nice. In fact it can make your car look dirty, or like it was just plain vandalised. In Salalah, it is illegal to drive ‘dirty’ vehicles and can result in some very hefty fines. The temperature here was still warm, about 32C, we would still need to continue on to find someplace to camp. An hour later we arrived at the Frakensense Park (yes, like one of the gifts given to Jesus kind of Frakensense). The temp here was a perfect 24C, however it was likely a lot cooler than that if you factored in the blustering cool wind that rocked our car and threatened to blow us into the gulley. Tired we looked around the area briefly to see if there was some sheltered area we could set up our tents out of the wind. Alas, there was not. So back into the car we piled. As we drove into Salalah resolved to find a hotel we quickly learned that idea may not be possible as we came to a stop in a 5 km traffic jam, it was 1:00am. During Monsoon season (about May – September) this area becomes overpopulated with visitors from all over the place. Saudi’s, Yemenese, Omanis, Emirates, and Expatriates flood to this green oasis from out of the desert to party all day and apparently all night. 2:30, that was the time that James woke me up to crawl from the car into the tent.

“What is that guy doing up in the tree?”

The next morning we discovered that the men had managed to get us to the quiet end of a public beach. We took things slow, exploring the beach, playing in the waves, climbing coconut palms…. James managed to climb the palm to the top and drop several coconuts for us to try to open. Just before lunch we were packed up and back on the road. We had intended to go view the blowholes, but not realising how popular an attraction it is, decided against it upon seeing the packed parking lot, winding line of people and 2 dozen tents on the beach next to it. We carried on instead up the mountain to explore. The sites are truly beautiful so don’t be in too much of a rush not to stop and take it in every once in awhile. There are also many camel farms in the area, and could literally run into herds of 20 -200 on or alongside the road. We followed the signs down off the mountain top to a small village called Rakhuyt. Rakhoot Street circles the little town, and there appears to be a road that goes off around the mountain side. Our Australian companions may have been able to navigate the rocky, and sandy terrain but our CR-V lacked the required clearance and power to get much further than a couple hundred meters. We turned back and decided to head through the gate towards the beach. Out of curiosity we followed the unpaved road to its end (stay to the right) and came upon a plateau overlooking the ocean, perfect for a camp. We parked at about 3:00 and took the trail to the beach to explore. Tiny hermit grabs and snails peppered the shoreline as the waves washed them in and then pulled them out again.

Chasing the kids up the beach.

The large boulders formed caves that the kids enjoyed playing in. James found a trail leading up through the rocks but we didn’t ever find the time to explore it more thoroughly. If we do make it back here, I’m sure that will be the first thing on his list to do. James was eager to run back along the switchback road we had just descended while camp was being set up so for an hour we sat around, enjoyed the view, and watched the kids playing in the cold ocean waves. The past late nights, made for an early bedtime that evening, and we were soon all tucked away into bed.

Happy Birthday to me! Lightening again in the night had made for light sleep. I woke up early to see the sunrise and also was startled to see a herd of cows and a small group of camels walked down the beach towards us.

Stand off.

They stopped abruptly about 200 meters and turned back the way they came. Lilli emerged from her tent than her and I run up and down the beach trying to chase the hermit crabs as they were washed ashore and getting video of the snails as they burrowed into the sand to escape us. After camp was collapsed and we were set to go we decided to collaborate and decide on our destination for the day. We were in agreement to continue down the road towards Yemen to Dalkoot to check out the fishing village that would likely be the point of departure to reach some scriptural locations we wanted to investigate. However, because of the choppy waters the marina parking lot was packed with parked parked boats instead of cars.

No fishing today. Boats pulled up on shore in Dalkut.

No one would be going anywhere on a boat. Rain kept us from spending a lengthy amount of time exploring and we were soon on our way. As it was my birthday I voted to go see the waterfall, but it was in the opposite direction and would add time to our trip. Instead we decided to find Wadi Uyun on our way back out of Salalah towards the highway home. Even here the signs using English alphabet are phonetically spelt and not always the same on every map. We missed the turn off and drove into the village of Uyun instead of heading to the Wadi.

Here this camel shows us the way. Not at all spelt the same as on the map.

Some directions from the locals got us headed back in the right direction and we found it without difficulty. Rain threatened us and lead to a rushed setup of tents and tarps. That evening we enjoyed dinner, birthday cake, and some really deep political and religious conversation. The trip to this point had been absolutely wonderful.

The next day was the day James wrote about 5 months ago. The day in which they are both still recovering from the traumatic series of events. I can’t even bring myself to write or think about this day as it only leads me to think of how much worse it could have been. After the attack we drove back to Haima and stayed at the Arabian Oryx hotel.

YAY for hotels with big beds and hot showers.

It was nice, clean, decently priced and had hot running water 🙂 We returned to a similar restaurant as the one we ate at our first time through to discover they had an additional item to their menu, Camel & rice! This time we ate on the floor on a woven carpet with a plastic sheet under our platters of food. No utensils were offered so we did our best to rolled the rice into balls to better eat it.

Yemenese dinner.

I can’t say that James and I were very successful but the kids were naturals.

The next day we were looking forward to an uneventful drive home, but were surprised by a flat tire 45 min into our drive. Between towns and gas stations there is not a whole lot to look at. There is nothing but a 2 lane road with broad paved shoulders (so more like a 4 lane road for the locals that drive it). This knowledge was a bit unnerving as we pulled off on the shoulder to change our tire.

That looks flat.

Getting the jack in place

Just a little nerve racking being pulled over on this road.

I would have to say, being on the side of the road at 7:00 am in a cultural setting where the rest of the population isn’t getting up until 10:00 am worked in our favour that morning. There weren’t many cars on the road that morning, and on top of it, the temperature was bearable for spending time standing on the blacktop of the pavement. Once the tire was on the kids decided they needed to pee….

Toilet break.

Did I mention there is nothing but pavement to look at? So out came our handy dandy portable changing room and a shovel and business was taken care of. By 1:30 we were across the border and in Al Ain. We took our traditional stop at Bawaldi Shopping Center food court for lunch/dinner, enjoyed Fun City courtesy of our Australian friends and then we were back on the road to home.

Enjoy these and other photos from our trip to Salalah. Can’t wait to go back again.